Hands-On Omega Railmaster in it’s new, vintage-inspired version

Łukasz Doskocz8.08.20258.08.20256 min. of reading

The classic, old-school Railmaster returns to Omega’s casual watch collection. This time, it is available in two versions, featuring a compact steel case and plenty of retro-inspired details.

The history of the Omega Railmaster dates back to 1957. At the time, a watch was developed in Biel specifically for railway workers – designed to withstand the discomforts and hazards they faced in their daily work. It just so happened, that at exactly the same time the Seamaster (version 300) and Speedmaster models were also unveiled, and it was them that undoubtedly – at least from a hindsight – stole the show. The Railmaster turned out to be a genuine tool watch, which, due to its unspectacular appearance and purpose, went somewhat unnoticed.

The CK2914 reference had a steel case and bracelet, and a mechanism placed in a Faraday cage, thanks to which it was resistant to magnetic fields up to a 1 000 gauss. Omega also added a legible dial and essential functionality, which for some reason did not particularly appeal to civilian collectors. Railmaster quickly fell into oblivion, and the watch returned to the collection for good only in 2012. More important, however, is the premiere from 2017 and the trio of three revived, original designs of the Seamaster, Speedmaster and Raimaster models. The watches were recreated with laboratory precision, by laser scanning the original designs and – on this basis – creating very faithful re-editions. The Railmaster therefore received a small-diameter steel case, a steel bracelet with polished and satin-finished links inside, a black dial with beige lume (imitating the inevitable passage of time), closed under a strongly convex glass, and an automatic Master Chronometer movement with increased resistance to magnetic fields, working inside the case. Of the entire trilogy – available separately or as a collector’s set – it was the Railmaster that most tickled my somewhat conservative watch taste.

Permanent collection was then joined by the Railmaster in a version based on the Aqua Terra model. The watch was designed in a rather technical, raw way – maybe even a bit too raw – from the perspective of the heavily brushed, flat dial and fully brushed case and bracelet. Even the quality movement with METAS certification did not help the overall feel and the watch finally disappeared from the collection in 2024. This time, however, Railmaster remained dormant for a short time – barely a few months.

Railmaster 2025

In recent times, Omega has been strongly focusing on casual watches and timepieces ideal for everyday wear. Proof? The greatly expanded Aqua Terra line, which has featured a whole range of new models and a multitude of dial colours, from oh-so-elegant, lacquered black to bold, gradient turquoise. I mention AT not only in this context, because it also has a lot in common with the new Railmasters.

When designing the new watch, Omega made it easier for itself and used the external components of the new Aqua Terra (after all, both watches are members of the Seamaster family). Therefore we have a steel case with a diameter of 38 mm and a fairly thick (proportionally) profile, measuring 12.4 mm. The sides, along with the smoothly extending lugs, are finished with horizontal satin-brushing, while the wide edges of the curved, upper surfaces (lugs) are polished. The bezel is also polished. On the right, at 3 o’clock, there is a conical crown with the brand’s logo embossed on it – the Greek letter Ω.

Case construction is complemented by two sapphire glasses. The front one is slight convex and with double-sided anti-reflection.

Under the glass of the caseback, you can see the work of the manufacture movement. Depending on the version, Railmaster is equipped with a Co-Axial escapement caliber 8806 (central seconds) or caliber 8804 (small seconds). Both have a 55-hours power reserve, a 3.5 Hz frequency, silicon balance hairspring and, for the icing on the cake – the Master Chronometer certificate, guaranteeing, among other things, high resistance to magnetic fields. The aesthetic icing on the cake is the Geneva striping typical of Omega, arranged in the form of an arabesque,  plus characteristic red engravings, contrasting with black screws and a balance wheel.

Gradient Dial

What really sets the two new Railmasters apart is the dial. Omega has designed two extremely different versions, which potentially – due to their diversity – should appeal to two different groups of customers. However, something tells me that the vast majority of them will decisively lean towards the variant you see on the photos.

In the first variant Railmaster has a monochromatic, gray-black dial with a color that spreads in a gradient from light gray in the center to almost pitch black at the edges. The hour indexes made of luminova are in pale white. Brand’s logo and the model name are also white, written in a vintage font. Time is measured by three steel, centrally mounted and polished hands, of which the minute hand ends with a large arrow (typical for a “Broad Arrow” style).

Option no. 2 is a dial in a gradient, warm brown hue. The shade, which smoothly spreads from light in the middle to dark at the edge, could be described as the color of coffee with milk, tobacco or perhaps the patina that sometimes appears on the dials of vintage watches (then they are called “tropic”). Next, completely flat dial has a set of beige, slightly convex hour indices, a white minute scale and a small seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock. It has been recessed slightly below the surface, but without any decorative motives, equipped instead with a beige hand.

Two central hands – the hour and the minute – are made of nicely contrasting, polished steel, slightly beveled and filled with beige luminova. The minute hand, same as in the gray model, ends with a “broad arrow” style tip. The design is complemented by the white Omega logo and the model name, placed above the point where the hands are mounted.

Price, and some thoughts

The latest installment of the Omega Railmaster saga is offered in total of 4 references: both dial colors are combined with either a calfskin strap and a steel clasp, or a steel bracelet, assembled from rows of links satin-brushed on the outside and polished in the middle, fastened with a fold-over butterfly clasp. It would be logical to choose the bracelet option and then possibly buy a strap to go with it. In my humble opinion, new Railmaster looks best in combination of the strap and brown “tobacco” dial.

Omega asks 6 300 EUR for the reviewed model. With the bracelet, the price jumps up to 6 600 EUR. For comparison, it is about a 1000 EUR less than the comparable Aqua Terra. So who will reach for which watch? As I mentioned in the beginning, the Seamaster Aqua Terra, although undoubtedly with a casual flair, is a timepiece with a rather elegant character and, for example, in the black version, it can even be considered a strictly elegant dress watch. It will therefore suit the tastes – and consequently – the wrists of customers looking for a certain dose of elegance (I promise that this is the last time I repeat this word). And the Railmaster? It is definitely something for the fans of vintage aesthetics, who will particularly appreciate the colour, layout and simplicity of the dial.

I would add one more, personal argument for the watch. The Railmaster with a brown gradient, small seconds and three Arabic indexes reminds me particularly of a certain historical reference from Omega, the return of which many collectors dream of. Can you guess which one?