SIHH 2012 – “The Best of…”

Łukasz Doskocz7.02.201228.05.20134 min. of reading

This year’s Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie is a history. We asked a selected group of international watch-journalists (and our friends) to select their favourite timepieces revealed in Geneva.

Elizabeth Doerr – Worldtempus

Jaeger-LeCoultre Duomètre à Sphérotourbillon

I adore the mechanical beauty and practicality of the new Duomètre à Sphérotourbillon. This eminently visible double-axis whirlwind with spherical balance spring is housed in an incredibly svelte 42 mm rose gold case that proportionately sits on the wrist. Despite its complexity, it is easy to use and seriously adds to chronometry and accuracy. I hope this timepiece is only the beginning of such practical tourbillons.

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Kristian Haagen – TimeGeeks

Richard Mille RM056

I am huge fan of Richard Mille and of course the obvious choice for a SIHH favourite of 2012 is the RM056 “Ghost” priced at Euro. 1.4 mill (and sold out in three days, mind you). But besides the wonderfully wicked horological mind of Riccardo, I have to vote for other favourites of 2012: the tender updating of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ref. 15202. Still featuring the thinnest automatic movement with center rotor and still looking very much like the original from 1972. Also Officine Panerai Radiomir 1940 as well as oversized Louis Cartier Tank of rose gold gets me highest appraisals.

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Miguel Seabra – Espiral do Tempo

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph

There were fabulous creations with highly complex mechanisms that I really fancied, like the Greubel Forsey GMT model with a spherical Earth or almost any creation by Richard Mille — but, regarding ‘regular’ models, to me the understated star of the SIHH 2012 was the new steel Royal Oak Chronograph from Audemars Piguet: the chronograph function and tri-compax dial gives the so-called ‘original luxury sports watch’ an even sportier personality and the slightly bigger 41 mm size will appeal to all those looking for a contemporary sport-elegant timepiece with an iconic aura from a prestigious manufacture.

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Ian Skellern – Underthedial

Grubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Seconds Contemporain

The 2012 SIHH indicated a year of consolidation rather than sensation; however, that said, there were still a quite a few new watches that caught my eye. The solid sapphire crystal case of the Richard Mille RM56 looks as though it has been carved from solid diamond – and for $1.65 million you might wish it was. Van Cleef & Arples 5-minute repeater Poetic Wish was an artistic treat and the legibility of the Lange & Söhne Perpetual calendar with months displayed around the periphery of the dial confirms the brand’s status as the masters of understated innovation. But the winner for me in the eye-candy stakes has to be the stunning blue Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Seconds Contemporain. The movement’s plates and bridges are in anodized titanium because that was the only metal that offered both the hue and consistency demanded and the way the tourbillon appears to float free in space thanks to a transparent sapphire bridge is simply mesmerizing. I am biased towards the extreme quality of Greubel Forsey’s timepieces, but the Contemporain ticked all of the boxes – except perhaps, ‘discretion’.

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Louis Nardin – Worldtempus

Van Cleef & Arpels Poetic Wish

Poetic Wish VCA -> VCA strength its presence in « poetic complication » with this « double » watch as there is a version for ladies and anoter for males. These both timepieces are amazing refering to their dials first. Each contains 5 different levels for a total thickness of 3 mm. Showing Notre Dame or la Tour Eiffel, they are the background in which the automates will move. The technique of the caliber. First movement ever developed by Agenhor, it proposes an automaton animation and a 5 minutes repeater. The caliber has an annular form and holds in its central hole a revolutionary hammers system. The gongs in form of spirals are visible on the back of the watch through a sapphire glass.
The Skull from RM (RM052)-> As technical as lyrical, this pieces is more complicated than what we can think about. In fact, all the components of the movement have been condensed under a bridge in form of a skull. The bones maintain the caliber into the box. The challenge here has been first to be audacious enough to create a so real « skeletonized » watch with a design of the skull that make think to the Mexican Day of the dead heads. It’s glamorous, it’s punk, it’s technical and funny. A real good one.
The Lange 1QP-> again the saxon manufacture surprises the watch lover with a perfect piece of technical art. Meaning, they remain coherent with their philosophy of creating beautiful, technically innovative, solid and harmonious calibers. The display of the function on the dial is pure, simple, and also different from what exist nowadays.

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Tomasz Kiełtyka – CH24.PL

PANERAI Radiomir PAM00425

At this year’s SIHH almost every brand presented their won tourbillion or minute repeater. The complicated watches were so common, that my attention went to something more classic and traditional history-related. My choice is Officine PANERAI Radiomir S.L.C. 3 Days model PAM00425. I rate it A- for ascetic design matched with great finish and case. The little (-) for the size – huge 47mm.