SIHH 2013: “The Best of…”

Łukasz Doskocz26.02.201328.05.20136 min. of reading

Just as every year, hereby we present you our choice of the most interesting premiers of this year’s Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva.

Elizabeth Doerr (worldtempus.com)

Even though I had extenuating circumstances that prevented me from actually attending the SIHH this year, after perusing all the press kits and catching up on what I missed, I think that I can pinpoint two favorites for this fair, though one may seem out-of-character for me at first glance.

The SIHH 2013 seems to have been the “declared year of the woman,” but many of the feminine timepieces I saw were technical masterpieces made “prettier” by various embellishments like enamel and gems. One of the feminine masterpieces, though a purpose-built one for the female wrist, is the Rendez-Vous Celestial by Jaeger-LeCoultre, which I had the honor of seeing in avant-premier in November. And it blew me away with its gorgeous mechanics as well as the fact that it was not a shrunk-down version of a previously existing man’s watch. This rare beauty is a unique complication in a watch dedicated to women. What a lovely concept – and a lovely timepiece, inside and out.

There seem to have been many complicated watches at this year’s SIHH, and one I truly not regret seeing in the metal is the A. Lange & Söhne Grand Complication, the most complicated watch ever to issue from Glashütte—and indeed Germany. This long-awaited timepiece inspired by the historical pocket watch with the reference number 42500 does it all, including chime a large and small sonnerie. Naturally, its understated look appeals to me as does its highly collectible, complicated nature.

Robert-Jan Broer (Fratellowatch.com)

The SIHH 2013 stunner for me this year was definitely the Baume&Mercier Clifton collection. Where other brands are showing off their excellent watchmaking skills by presenting us their +100K Euro master pieces, Baume&Mercier introduces a watch line that will appeal to the masses with a more realistic budget for a fine mechanical timepiece. The Clifton has been inspired by Baume&Mercier’s heritage from the 1950s and they did a wonderful job in doing so. It breathes 1950s without being ‘an old’ watch. The dimensions are well-thought about and the long lugs with perfect beveled edges make it an elegant timepiece. A watch for everyday wear.

The Clifton 1830 in gold with the hand-wound La Joux-Perret based caliber 7381 movement would be my pick, but I realize this is the most expensive piece of the collection. The Clifton collection starts at approx 2500 Swiss Francs, which is a great price point.

Kristian Haagen (timegeeks.dk)

Call me an old fart, but my favorite of this year’s SIHH was neither made of a material found on a distant planet, featuring one thousand micro mechanic functions nor featuring a handpainted dial by a guy who use only his left foot. Blindfolded.

This year, my arm once again felt at its best when wearing a Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso. Just like last year. And probably the year before, however 2011 is so far away in my memory that thrills and pills from SIHH that year are long forgotten.

But looking at the wonderful dial of the 2013 Reverso Ultra Thin Duoface of rose gold is cheer eye candy and the comfy feel around the wrist is hard to beat. The white dial is truly fascinating and has a retro feel about the layout and execution. This is extremely appealing to me. And is even more beautiful on the gold version. The steel version is of course also extremely handsome and a watch I could imagine putting my name on in near future.

The Reverso, to me at least, represents classic horology at its best and is a watch I could go to the grave with. I consider the Reverso as important as the Ray-Ban Wayfarers, the Burberry Trench coat, a pair of Church brogues and Levi’s 501s. All products of splendid design and sensible luxury. And this is why I once again vote for the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso as this years SIHH favorite.

Miguel Seabra (Espiral do Tempo.com)

Last year, among the ultra-complicated and highly expensive watches unveiled at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, I went for the ‘simple’ updated version of the iconic Royal Oak Chronograph from Audemars Piguet. But this time around I’ll be choosing precisely the 2 million euro masterpiece on display for several reasons ranging from technical to symbolic: the Grand Complication from A. Lange & Söhne. It combines Grande & Petite Sonnerie, Minute Repeater, Perpetual Calendar and monopusher Split-Seconds Chronograph on a big yet balanced 50 mm classic case that is quite appealing aesthetically; besides all the mechanical complexities and world firsts, it represents the ultimate proof that the historic Saxony manufacture is aiming at the absolute best and is on par with the top-notch Swiss brand(s).

But I’d also like to mention Panerai’s Luminor 1950 Regatta 3 Days Chrono Flyback Titanio as a favourite in the sports watch department and, outside the SIHH, De Bethune’s stellar DB28 Skybridge as my contemporary timepiece of choice.

Tomasz Kiełtyka (CH24.PL)

This year’s SIHH was vastly different from the show from past years. Most of the 16 brands presented their absolute top of the tops models – masterpieces stuffed with complications with truly astronomical prices. Others focused mainly on the ladies watches which means, that women buying jewellery watches developed some more significant taste in watchmaking that the one for diamonds. This two facts together makes our selection both difficult and surprising – even to myself. Travelling to Geneva I always wait for some specific brands and timepiece to see. This year only one of them made it to my top 3 selection. I would never suspect to select Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec Rising Hours. Despite a bit unnecessary complication the watch is a positive surprise and looks killer on the wrist.

My second choice is Baume&Mercier Clifton in gold case and modified La Joux-Perret calibre, with one reservation – gold version is expensive and the steel one is not that nice. Third nomination goes to Jaeger-LeCoultre for the Deep Sea Chronograph Cermet and for the classic Master Ultra Thin Jubilee.

None of this watches is a high-end Haute Horlogerie piece, but this year I wanted to select timepieces and brands that are something new, fresh, different. Because – just look at PANERAI. It’s one of my favourite brands but their policy to just slightly juggle with details and multiply number of references can be both distracting and misleading. And I pass on the Grande Complication from A.Lange&Sohne – it is phenomenal but… how many people on Earth can afford it?

Łukasz Doskocz (CH24.PL)

My colleagues already wrote it all. SIHH 2013 was both a celebration of femininity (the entire Vacheron Constantin collection devoted to ladies speaks volumes) and high-end Haute Horlogerie (Grande Complication from LANGE and AP or Gyrotourbillon 3 from JLC). It is therefore even more impressive to notice the Baume&Mercier consistent pursuit to build an image of solid brand with an entry level price suitable for an average watch lover. Clifton 1830 with its gold case and hand-wound movement just simply emanates the 50’s – a truly beautiful watch. But since Clifton was already prized, my choice is a true SIHH 13 masterpiece – 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar from A.Lange&Söhne.

One, almost 42mm red or white gold case houses the entire genius of the German manufacture – manually wound, stunning-looking calibre with perpetual calendar and split-second (rattrapante) chronograph combined in a classic, timeless and gorgeous form… what would you want more?